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Midwest Switching from C&C to MW cage, I have one question though..

Levenn

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I have done a lot of thinking to the pros and cons of switching from a C&C to a MW cage and I found that MW will probably fit my lifestyle better when it comes to maintenance and expansion.

This is what I currently have. Its a 2x5 C&C. I also have upgraded my cage a few times to get to this size, and each time I find that I am spending more money on cubes and coroplast, than I would like, I recently thought that I would actually like to go bigger, but I don't want to go through the hassle of buying even more cubes and new coroplast to make the base, and then cutting all the cable ties and breaking this thing down to rebuild it again.




A pro of having a MW cage that I like, is that I can just buy an expansion and I can just keep adding whenever I would like without having to tear apart everything to rebuild it all. and right now they are 36 bucks on amazon...thats less than what I would pay for more cubes and coroplast... So when I get paid tonight, I am buying some MW cages + ramp covers and im going to connect them together. The only thing that I am trying to figure out, is a stand, I understand that the base is a canvas (Not to sure how floppy it is). I plan on sewing some fleece liners for it all, I was wondering if I could use all the cubes I have and make a stand for it and with the thick liners im going to make, the pigs shouldn't feel the cubes grid holes maybe?

What do you guys use as a stand for your MW cages? Or do you just have them sit on the ground?

Thanks in advance for the help :)
 

Traysea

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So are you saying you are going to connect your C and C cage to midwest cages? The drawback to the midwest is that although you can expand, they won't ever be able to run full out along the whole cage. And if you wanted to do something similar to your C and C cage all you would need to do is keep your existing coroplast and order just the size of coroplast to fit the new expansion. When you keep the existing coroplast as it is you can either put in a ramp for them to get into the new section or cut in doorways where the expansion meets the existing coroplast. If you just cut the two sides you can drop that down like a drawbridge and lay the expansion base on top of it so if you want to put it back together in the future, you can tape the door back up. Does that make sense?
 

Levenn

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Sorry, I must have not typed it right lol, I meant making a stand with the grids so the me cages can be off the floor.
 

Traysea

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The outer dimensions of a MW cages are 24" wide x 47" long

Using connectors:
A 2x3 C and C cage outer dimensions is 30 x 44 (too short)
A 2x4 C and C cage outer dimensions is 30 x60 (will have room on the sides)

Without connectors you would have an easier time adding on, but your stand won't be as straight as with the connectors.
Another thought would be building your own stand using low book shelves and plywood across the top or banquet tables which are 30" x either 4ft, 5ft or 6ft
 

Levenn

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The outer dimensions of a MW cages are 24" wide x 47" long

Using connectors:
A 2x3 C and C cage outer dimensions is 30 x 44 (too short)
A 2x4 C and C cage outer dimensions is 30 x60 (will have room on the sides)

Without connectors you would have an easier time adding on, but your stand won't be as straight as with the connectors.
Another thought would be building your own stand using low book shelves and plywood across the top or banquet tables which are 30" x either 4ft, 5ft or 6ft


Thanks a bunch Traysea! You have always gave awesome advice to my threads since ive been on this forum. :)
 

Traysea

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Welcome :O) Also, ya know I had another thought, if you are interested in doing rooms rather than long running space, why not build upwards, it's easier to go up than it is to go out.
 

Scooterpig

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I use Midwest cages (I've a thread on here called extended Midwest cages which might give you some ideas). I've joined two Midwest cages together in a square shape. For a base, I bought Ikea desktops (I used the Tornliden desktops, which I think are the thickest ones, but I recall they had thinner desktops of the same width and length which were half the price). They're each 47 1/4 x 23 5/8 inches, so perfect for a Midwest cage. I then used the 8 inch Ikea kitchen cabinet legs - we actually used them to join the desktops together. They're strong (my 225 lb husband can stand on them).

I've also used a sheet of coroplast in the cage, under the flippers, to make cleaning up easier, but that's down to personal preference.
 

Scooterpig

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BTW, how do you get the fleece tucked so neatly on the base of your cage? Is it a separate piece to the bit round the sides?
 

Levenn

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found a 24x48in fold out table at home depot for 30 bucks. works PERFECT!! :)
 

Traysea

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Levenn did you ever switch out your cages? My cousin is considering a midwest and I was wondering if you have photos of yours? I need photos of nicely decorated cages.
 

Levenn

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Levenn did you ever switch out your cages? My cousin is considering a midwest and I was wondering if you have photos of yours? I need photos of nicely decorated cages.

I haven't connected the other MW cage to it yet, Gotta get another fold out table from home depot haha.
 

Traysea

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Would you mind terrible posting an overhead shot of the whole cage. If you could that would be awesome.
 

Levenn

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Took this a few minutes ago, Its basically a tad bigger than a 2x3 in grids, which is 7.5sq ft, and a MW is 8sq ft. I am a very short person, so what I've been really liking so far is the front bit can unhook and open up like two doors, and It makes it easier to get in there and clean. Hope this helps.


I cant wait to get another fold out table and I can connect the other MW cage I have, it will be the equivalent to having a 2x6. :eek:
 
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