Cage Question - Zipties & Second lvl?

I use 4" zip ties, but, I think any kind would be ok.

I make my first level with connectors and the loft with zip ties. I add two wooden I-beams that span the width of the cage and rest on the openings of the grids to support the loft. I can remove the loft to clean under it that way. I use 8" zip ties which are really strong.

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This shows the wooden I beams. I attach screw eyes under the wood pieces so the I beams don't slip out.

@pinky, where did you get those beams?

UchihaMickey said:

@pinky, where did you get those beams?

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I got them at Lowe's.

Ah ok, Thanks Are they recommended for support or are they just for added support?

UchihaMickey said:

Ah ok, Thanks Are they recommended for support or are they just for added support?

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The loft is completely separate from the base. Since it's connected with zip ties, it's smaller than the base and fits down into it. The loft sits on the I-beams but lifts right out.

pinky said:

I make my first level with connectors and the loft with zip ties. I add two wooden I-beams that span the width of the cage and rest on the openings of the grids to support the loft. I can remove the loft to clean under it that way. I use 8" zip ties which are really strong.

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I agree with pinky, I would use the connectors and zipties, I think that looks best and the most stable. I do have one with and one without because of the 2 inches saved in space.

spy9doc said:

Very clever! As usual, you're my hero, Pinky.

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Thanks, @spydoc, but it's more a matter of trial and error than cleverness on my part...... I experimented with a lot of different ideas when building my cages and this seemed to work the best. I no longer have a loft since I have three cages to maintain but having a removable loft made cleaning the cage and changing the bedding easier. Plus, it turns back into a single level cage in an instant.

I prefer 8" zip ties to 4" zip ties. They are much stronger. I think it is faster to build the cage without the connectors but I think it looks nicer with them. Mine has connectors. I zip tie every single connection. I used 8" zip ties for my cage. I would use 8" especially if you are not going to use connectors.

The cage store has these things called wonder bars that can support lofts and upper levels. They are $7.99 each and they are really nice. They have holes in them so that you can zip tie them to the cage. Maybe that would work for your loft so that the tray can be removable. They come in white and black.

oh wow Pinky I just realized that without the connectors your loft nests inside your main level. That is really awesome. Then you can lower it down and the ramp is not so steep. Really brilliant!

Traysea said:

oh wow Pinky I just realized that without the connectors your loft nests inside your main level. That is really awesome. Then you can lower it down and the ramp is not so steep. Really brilliant!

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The other nice thing is that the ramp is connected to the underside of the loft with vecro. So are the sides. I can adjust the I-beams higher up or lower and adjust the velcro on the sides so the ramp incline will change. I've also experimented with different widths of the ramp. This one is 9" wide but I think I prefer the 7 or 8" width. The sides are 7" high. I made one with an outside ramp that's higher than the inner side. I've also angled the inside ramp so it's shorter towards the bottom than on the top. I always round the corners of the bottom of the ramp so they don't get poked by any sharp edges.

I love velcro. I used velcro for my coroplast so I can open it up and clean out the corners. Easier to clean when they are flat.

Traysea said:

I love velcro. I used velcro for my coroplast so I can open it up and clean out the corners. Easier to clean when they are flat.

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That's an EXCELLENT idea! No more package sealing tape.... I think I'll do that when I have a change to take my cages apart.

glad I could inspire you, and I'm going to use your idea when I build my loft. )