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General Need advice please!

kp53179

Well-known Member
Cavy Slave
Joined
Jan 23, 2012
Messages
125
Okay I know I have asked a few of these questions before but I can't help to feel unsure still. On Sunday I will be taking in my nieces guinea pig Snickers so that him and mine (Buddy) will have a playmate! I will be taking both of them to the vet on Tuesday possibly. (In the meantime I will keep them separate.) Now, lets just say they both have a clean bill of health, can I then start the introductions right away?

Next question is, even though I am sure I am right, they can not have any form of interaction at all until I take them to the vet right? Can I hold Buddy while my niece holds Snickers and they can just kind say hi that way? It will be so hard not to let them see each other right away because of course they are going to know that there is another one in the house.

Now, having two piggies, I know I should have two pigloos, but should I get two water bottles and food bowls? I got Buddy a big bed, its actually a ferret bed. Should I let Snickers and Buddy share a bed or should I not expect them to share? Should I get the same kind of bed? I am not sure how they will react to what is theirs or whatever. Sorry there are so many questions, I just want to make sure that my piggies are happy :) Thanks everyone for any advice!
 
When I had two, they shared a water bottle and food bowl just fine. However they are especially bonded, so you might have to see with your two! They might fight over it or might be fine!
 
Hello! When you put the pigs together kinda depends on what kind of quarantine you are doing. If you adopt a new pig from an unknown source (like a rehoming from craigslist or something), then it's always wise to keep the pig quarantined (completely separated, even in different rooms is best) from any pigs you already have for several weeks. During this time, you make sure the new pig is healthy. Even though the vet will be able to examine the new pig, cavies are extremely adept at hiding illness because they are prey animals. Your case is a little unique. If you are confident that the new pig has been living in excellent conditions (since you know the current owners well obviously) and the vet gives the all clear, then it is really your choice how long to keep the pigs isolated from each other. I personally would start with the introductions if I knew he was well taken care of in a sanitary environment, but others on this forum would probably recommend that you wait several weeks anyway to be on the safe side. You are correct about the no contact thing - If the pigs come into contact, then quarantine is broken since many bacterial and fungal infections can be very easily transmitted from pig to pig. Have a look at cavy spirit's introductions page if you haven't for instructions on how to introduce the pigs. Especially since your pigs are males, it will definitely help to have two of everything. Even more beneficial is space - give them as much cage space as you comfortably can. I don't think you need two identical hideys, etc. Just have several. Your pigs might become best buds in 10 seconds and share hideys or they might fight a lot and stay away from each other - you just can't predict this until you put them together. The cavyspirit page (Guinea Pigs Social Life) will tell you everything. It is really excellent! Introductions on NEUTRAL territory and thoroughly cleaning/rearranging the cage are perhaps the two most important things IMO. Also, are you absolutely positive about BOTH their genders? Although baby piggies are just about the cutest thing ever, the last thing we want as pig owners is to bring more into the world when so many are awaiting adoption! Anyway, keep us updated and GOOD LUCK with everything!
 
I would for sure get two pigloos. They'll occasionally share a hidey hut, but my three always liked to have their own space. Water bottles and food bowls are kind of on an as need basis. If it seems like they are getting a little too territorial with the food/water, then you can get two. My three had 3 huts, 2 water bottles, and 2 food bowls between them.
 
My recommendation is that you don't get pigloos at all. Pigs can easily get trapped in one, and they stay in there in their own wastes and breathing ammonia fumes from the urine. Get step stools from the dollar store, or cut the bottoms and ends out of cardboard boxes, or find something else with two entrances and exits.

You should only break quarantine if you're fully prepared for your older pig to possibly get sick from anything the new one may have and if you've got plenty of money for vet bills. Otherwise, keep them separated, and that means no nose to nose "meetings." Read Guinea Pigs Social Life before you start -- the Introductions section is about halfway down.

A clean bill of health from a vet just means that there's no observable infection of any kind at the moment the vet sees them. They could start sneezing with an URI an hour later, or have a huge outbreak of mites from the stress of going to the vet. The only way to be safe is to keep them separated until the incubation period for any possible illnesses is over with.

You'll have no control over where they sleep in the cage. Some pigs snuggle, some don't. Some sleep in beds, some sleep on beds, some sleep on bricks, some out in the middle of the cage. You won't be able to make them sleep together if they don't want, or keep them from sleeping together if they do.
 
i have recently bought a new guinea pig as a playmate for the guinea pig i already had. i started by introducing them on neutral territory for an hour a day. After a week, I cleaned out my original guinea pig cage, making sure no scent was left, re arranging the cage and adding new toys. The cage came with a built in sleeping area for the pigs, but i bought a new pigloo for the new guinea pig, as well as putting an extra drinking bowl and feeding bowl in. So far, they are getting on great! they dont seem to mind sharing everything, but i am leaving the extra things in there just so my older guinea pig does not become territorial.
 
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