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Upper Levels Making a 2x4 on top of my current 2x4

Mr. Pig

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I have a 2x4 on the floor for my two pigs, I am considering fostering 2 female guinea pigs from the L.A shelter. I know how to make it, I just do exactly as i do for the first one, just right on top of it! My question is... How am I suppose to get to my 2 pigs on the bottom cage if the top cage is covering the whole top part of the bottom cage???
 

Colorado Cavies

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A lot of people have made it work by just putting an extra row of grids between the two levels that have cages. That is pretty much your only option as far as I can figure.
 

Mr. Pig

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A lot of people have made it work by just putting an extra row of grids between the two levels that have cages. That is pretty much your only option as far as I can figure.


Ah, brilliant! I would have never thought of that.. If anyone else has any easier options I'd love to hear because if this is it, I'd have to buy an extra box of grids.
 

Colorado Cavies

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Well I guess really you could try something else to keep the two levels apart as long as it is stable. Maybe you could rig some thing else up but just be careful.
 

Inle_Rabbit

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You could do bi-fold doors. Just make sure to clip them so they stay closed!
 

Digital_Dad

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If you do the purple and black one I would suggest omitting the grids on the inside that block off the decks or skipping the deck part of it all together. Because it would make cleaning more difficult with the grids there and the coroplast would act as a wall to keep them from falling off.
 

Mr. Pig

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I'm just going to add a 1x2 to each side (above the current cage) and then build the second cage on top of that.
 

jacqueline

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I have a 1x3 loft, and felt like i needed something to support the bottom that was 3 grids long. i used those aluminum curtain rods. they are relatively flat, easily expandable, sturdy enough to support the grids, and thin so you can still use zip ties to tie the levels together.

my only concern about stacking cages would be finding a way to support the top one so it doesn't sag.
 

pinky

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I overlapped grids on the top cage so it would be slightly narrower so we could walk around the cage. I like that cage better than the other one because by overlapping, it's really sold and secure. I didn't need to add an I-beam under the top level. I could probably stand in that cage and it wouldn't budge.
 

Mr. Pig

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I overlapped grids on the top cage so it would be slightly narrower so we could walk around the cage. I like that cage better than the other one because by overlapping, it's really sold and secure. I didn't need to add an I-beam under the top level. I could probably stand in that cage and it wouldn't budge.


Thank you very much that's exactly what I'll do!
 

trexgorawrrrrr

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Here's a picture of my cage that's stacked. Have had it this way for a long time, and it works perfectly!
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Just make sure you use connectors AND zipties. Very sturdy... If you didn't use about 3 or so zipties on every part where grids meet up I'm not sure if it would be strong enough to hold together.
 

pinky

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Thank you very much that's exactly what I'll do!

I used 8" zip ties which are really strong. I built the bottom first, added the next row of grids, put in the coroplast on the bottom and added the top base and the top sides last. There's plenty of room to clean the bottom The top two level cage is 24 x56, the bottom two level cage is 27 x 56. Neither of my cages has any connectors. I had them on my old cage but thought it was sturdier with all zip ties.
 

trexgorawrrrrr

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Pinky I've never had just zipties, but I felt the connectors added that base support. It was like the outlining, and the zipties is what really held it together and makes it strong.
 

pinky

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Pinky I've never had just zipties, but I felt the connectors added that base support. It was like the outlining, and the zipties is what really held it together and makes it strong.

I guess it's a matter of preference. My original cage had connectors, then I had connectors and zip ties and finally I switched to all zip ties. We can lift the cage holding the top grids and carry it around, it's so sturdy.
 

trexgorawrrrrr

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I can do the same. As you said I think it's just preference. I just don't think I would feel like it was safe enough without the connectors. I definately believe that you know what you're talking about just as much though, so I'm sure either way this person decides to go it will turn out well. The key thing is just zipties in general I think :D
 

pinky

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I can do the same. As you said I think it's just preference. I just don't think I would feel like it was safe enough without the connectors. I definately believe that you know what you're talking about just as much though, so I'm sure either way this person decides to go it will turn out well. The key thing is just zipties in general I think :D

It's more than safe. The zip ties are rated. I use the 8" zip ties that are rated for 75 lb stress, 185 degrees F and indoor and outdoor use. I'll bet if I climbed into the cage, the grids might bend but the zip ties would hold because they're on tight and there's no gap between the grids. I went with all zip ties because I have a friend who built cat proof fencing in WA and used them to hold the fencing to the posts because of the strength and durability of them. The fence is massive and surrounds a large section of her property where she can let her cats outdoors and keep them safe. The zip ties withstand the elements plus pressure from animals a lot bigger than guinea pigs. It's withstood the weight of the animals trying to climb, plus it's weather resistant and is time tested. I'm not sure if the connectors are rated for weight or pressure stress so I figured I'd go with what I know is rated. The one thing I liked about connectors was that I could take the cage apart really quickly but I was more concerned about the cages being strong so that's why I went with all zip ties.

 
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