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How I built my cage, a pictorial.

TX_2_Pigs

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Ok, I have mentioned this a couple of times. I have rebuilt my cage to fit in a new space. I decided to take step-by-step pictures this time to show just how easy it is.

First thing was to lay out the base. This took 14 grids.


Once the base was laid out, I zip tied all the grids together at all sides that were adjoining. This took 38 zip ties.


Once they are all zip tied at the adjoining sides, this is what the corner looks like.


Then I laid out and zip tied all the sides I would need. There was the back side, 5 grids and 8 ties.


a long side, 4 grids and 6 ties.


front, 3 grids and 4 ties.
(turns out I don't have a picture of this but it would be the same as the above pictured long side, except it would only have 3 grids.)

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TX_2_Pigs

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continued from last post:

3 short ends, 2 grids and 2 ties each.


Then I attached all the sides to the base. I laid each side on top of the base and zip tied the adjoining edges.


Once all the sides are attached, which took 28 zip ties, stand all the sides up and zip tie all the corners at the top and bottom. This took 12 ties.


Trim all of your zip ties as close as you can .


Now you have a completed frame and you are ready for your coroplast.


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TX_2_Pigs

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continued from last post

Because of the way I had my other cage I was able to just pull out the sections and put them in the new frame. However, because it had a different shape, there were some gaps.


So I just added some more coroplast to the side


and bottom and taped all the seems with packing tape.


Now you will notice I haven't used any connectors so I wanted to demonstrate how sturdy this actually was so I stood the cage on its side.


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TX_2_Pigs

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continued from last post

Now I was going to just used my original base without the added plywood, but it wouldn't fit in the space I was using. So I separated the grids from the wood table.


and I had to add grids to get the same shape


I didn't get a picture of the completed base before I put the cage back on top. I did use the connectors for the base and re-enforced them with zip ties.

I added my fleece.


and now my cage is finished.


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TX_2_Pigs

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continued from last post

I put all the houses and such in and it is ready for the pigs. I hadn't put the hay rack in yet which hangs over the litter tray. It has a towel and a small piece of fleece in it that can be removed every day since this is where they mostly go to the bathroom while they are eating the hay. I hadn't put any Oxbow pellets in their bowl because they only get those at night.



I wanted to put the large brick across the seam, but I didn't have a grid under it for support yet. I added it the next day and moved my brick. And just another note on how strong this is, that large brick weighs over 20 pounds. The key is having the weight distributed correctly. Without a grid under it, it does sag and I am not sure how long it would last. But with the support underneath, it is plenty strong.


As a final step, I zip tied the cage to the base so I can move it around without separating it.

And a few random shots of the boys enjoying their new living space.



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TX_2_Pigs

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continued from last post

and a few more pictures of the boys exploring:





THE END!
 

Maisiepaisie

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I wanted to put the large brick across the seam, but I didn't have a grid under it for support yet. I added it the next day and moved my brick. And just another note on how strong this is, that large brick weighs over 20 pounds. The key is having the weight distributed correctly. Without a grid under it, it does sag and I am not sure how long it would last. But with the support underneath, it is plenty strong.
Thanks I just realised now why my cage is a bit saggy and what I need to. Heres my cage https://i76.photobucket.com/albums/j4/maisiepaisie/DSCF3680.jpg
It has supports, just not in the right places. The base sags and wobbles when the pigs run. I'm redoing it over the next couple of days.

Your cage is awesome. Those are very lucky piggies :)
 
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pigsforlife

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I love your cage and the step-by-step instructions along with the pictures are very helpful. It goes to show how easy a C&C cage is to make and also how sturdy it can be. Well done and thank you!
 

TX_2_Pigs

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And just another note on how strong this is, that large brick weighs over 20 pounds.

I actually weighed this brick this weekend when I cleaned out the cage.

It weighs 45 pounds!
 

socal805

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This is really a great cage, thank you so much for posting it and giving such detailed instructions. I would love to add on to mine, it's currently a 2x5 and I think the "L" shape would be just perfect!
 

thegpiglioness

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Oh your little black and orange faced boy has almost the same face markings as my little girl pig! And I love how your cage looks so compact and clean. This thread gave me ideas on how to fix up my cage so I don't constantly look at it and think "oh my god, it sorta looks shabby" After all, I wouldn't want someone to see the cage and think exactly what I think. I think that the little animal pics on side of the choroplast adds a cute touch!

~TheGPigLioness:love:
 

Zelda_Zoe

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Hi, question about how MUCH coroplast to buy. I found some on the web sized 4mm Coroplast 24" x 18" x 4mm (10 sheets) for $28.90. Is that good, enough, bad, no good, too expensive?
 

Maisiepaisie

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Not sure about the price flower daisy but its much better to use bigger sheets or you will have lots of joins where urine will soak through. I bought some sheets of 4x8 feet for £16 each from a sign makers. Sign makers are the best option and you can find them in Yellow Pages.
 

Jennicat

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That seems very expensive. a 4'x8' sheet here ranges from $12-$20.
 

piggly wiggly

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This thread is great for showing step by step instructions. I really like the "L" shaped cages also.
 

socal805

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I have a question...is the cage attatched to the stand/base in any way?
 

TX_2_Pigs

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Redid it again.

For the 4 boys I decided to go with a 3x8. I had originally thought I would do a 4x5 but discovered it didn't fit the space.
I put these little felt circles on the connectors that would be touching the floor so that it would slide around on our tile.

redid the base for maximum support in the middle to hold the weight of, not 1 but 2, of those large bricks. I used pliers to make sure the grids were all the way in the connectors and then zip tied them to keep them secure. You have to start at one end, use the pliers and then zip tie before you go on or you will find that when you use the pliers on the next grid over, it pulls it out of the other connector you just did. So zip tie, then move on.

Added the cage

and the coroplast

The 3 largest pieces I had left over in the attic fit the space perfectly. It was just enough to go all the way up each end to help keep the hay in. I only have 3 inch sides in the front and back because I use fleece. The coroplast is 48 inches wide and the cage is 42. I securely tape the coroplast together at the seams.
 

TX_2_Pigs

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It takes 6 towels. I folded them in half length-wise and overlapped as little as possible. I folded the ends over so that it didn't overlap in the middle. I am looking at getting a couple of mattress pads though so I don't have to deal with laying the towels out.

Then it took all my difference pieces of fleece since I had them all cut for the smaller cage designs. I will be getting more fleece so I can use one whole piece. Thankfully my pigs don't burrow and they haven't messed with any of the seams.

Here it is. I am still working on what to keep in the cage and what can go. I still don't think they have enough room to run around because there is too much stuff.
 

TX_2_Pigs

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Ok, ok, I just can't leave it alone. I added a loft. I took my 1x2 travel cage, took out the coroplast tray and opened it along the back.


Then I took 3 of these cheapy curtain rods (you can get these at Dollar General, Wal-Mart or just about anywhere) and put them in the cage.


I set the "loft" on top of the curtain rods

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