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Cage Connectors or just plain zip ties? Pics of base please!

fess2

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I have my grids and zip ties and ready to build. However, I am a little confused as to whether or not the connectors will interfere with the coroplast. My plan is to set the cage on a table, and be able to lift the cage off the coroplast for cleaning. I notice some people have grids below the coroplast. If I use the connectors at the bottom, won't that interfere with the coroplast? Do you use the connectors elsewhere and zips at the bottom? Can anyone send some good pics of the base with and without the coroplast? Thanks. I really want to build this thing today!! Thanks in advance!
 
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pinky

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If you want to lift the sides to clean the base, use connectors and zip ties to hold it together. Just make sure you have enough space around the coroplast so you can lift it up. I prefer all zip ties around and under the base without connectors because I want a cage that I can carry around. Mine is a double decker and we can hold it by the top of the grids and carry it without it coming apart. For more stability, you can glue the connectors to the grids but I'd still attach zip ties if you plan to keep picking it up or it'll probably come apart. If you use zip ties to hold the sides together without connectors and don't have a grids under the cage, the sides will move around. Connectors hold them rigid as do grids on the bottom.
 

fess2

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Ok, thanks. Is there any benefit to using the connectors at the top, sides or bottom. I most likely will use a top on cage
 

pinky

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You should take out the grids and connectors and try putting them together so you can see how they work when you attach them from the side or top. The difference is the overlap of the connectors. Since you want to lift the grid frame off the coroplast, you need to make sure that the coroplast tray won't rest on the grids or you won't be able to lift it out. Are you really sure you want to go to the trouble of lifting out the tray? Depending upon what you put in it for bedding, it might be heavy and awkward to lift out. Keep in mind that the tray should be at least minimum standards for the number of guinea pigs you have. If you use regular bedding, you can line the cage with newspapers or paper yard waste bags that you cut open to lay flat. When it's time to clean the cage, put a hefty bag in there and roll the bedding into it. That's what I do when I don't use fleece. I have a double decker cage and the bottom of the top level is 28" off the ground. The top of the grids are 42" off the ground. I have no problems cleaning it without removing the base. There are a lot of good photos of different types of cages in the photo section. If you make a lid, you should overlap some grids on the three sides so it doesn't fall into the cage. Your other option is to add I-beams for the lid to rest on. I attachthe lids to the cage with zip ties when I've built cages with covers.
 

fess2

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I most definitely want fleece. I have experimented with carefresh, paper, aspen and fleece. Pigs and I like fleece best. Here is my reference for lifting the cage off corplast: . I don't see the need for a base of grids except that it would of course contribute to the sturdyness, but I reference the video as a possible option.
 

pinky

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I use fleece except when I won't be home overnight. I never lift sides or the base off. I have two fleece pads, slightly overlapped, per cage so my guinea pigs never even leave the cage. I put a couple of small, smooth cobblestones on the overlapped part so they don't burrow. It takes me about 5 minutes to remove, spray and replace. It's much easier and less time consuming than one piece that fits the cage. In between changing the fleece, I sweep up while the pigs are in there.
 

fess2

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You know what, I remember someone using a book case as a cage and they used velcro to adhere the fleece to coroplast. Thinking that might be best. So, I do not have to remove the cage (yay) and maybe it is best to put the connectors on the top! I don't see how the coroplast would fit inside the cage walls with the connectors on bottom ...
 

lunarminx

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Ok, thanks. Is there any benefit to using the connectors at the top, sides or bottom. I most likely will use a top on cage


The use of connectors makes for a better looking cage, the look is level and even.
 

fess2

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thanks to all for helping me work through this. I don't know why I was having such a difficult time with this, lol!
 

Starthecavy123

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I use both zip ties and connectors. Just make sure you cut the coroplast so the connectors don't interfere.
 

fess2

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ok, another silly question (you sick of me yet?) I measure a 2x3 cage 44x30 because of the spaces made by the connectors. I add the 12 inches on either end and get 56x42, BUT what am I doing wrong when The guidelines say:
bullet3.gif
Measure the length and width of the inside of the enclosure
See the see yellow lines in the photo. Remember to allow space for the connectors (measure from the inner edge of the connectors). The box will sit inside them.
With 14" grids, the measurements should be:41" x 27" for a 2 x 3 grid cage



 

lissie

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Are you measuring outside of the grids and connectors?
If you measure from the inner edge of the connectors (like the yellow line), it should be close to 41" x 27".
 

fess2

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Thanks Lissie. I totally missed it. It seems so simple, and no one said it-I did not realize that the base would sit inside the connectors..I just assumed that extra space between the wall of base and cage might be dangerous some how. Thanks. I got it now! Whew.
 
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