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CudsGwennyPash
12-09-13, 10:15 am
I am expanding my cage again because I am getting a new addition, but I can't decide on the size. I can either do a 3 by 8 with a 2 by 3 patio kitchen, or I can do a 3 by 9 with a 2 by 3 patio kitchen. Which one do you think I should do?

Kristine
12-09-13, 10:56 am
Bigger is better. But will cleaning under a 2x3 kitchen be hard?

CudsGwennyPash
12-09-13, 10:58 am
Bigger is better. But will cleaning under a 2x3 kitchen be hard?

Not for me, I get right into the cage. I lay down in the cage, so for me it won't be a problem at all.

Kristine
12-09-13, 11:04 am
Lol, ok. Yeah, no way could I get into the cage, it would all collapse and I'm waaaay too tall. I could probably send one of my kids into do it. Lmao.

Traysea
12-09-13, 11:09 am
If you make the 2x3 removable it will be very easy to clean under, you won't have to lay or crawl under. If you have the room and the money, then sure why not go bigger.

CudsGwennyPash
12-09-13, 11:16 am
If you make the 2x3 removable it will be very easy to clean under, you won't have to lay or crawl under. If you have the room and the money, then sure why not go bigger.

I don't need to make the loft removable. I never said I disliked laying the cage. My pigs actually like me too so they can crawl on me. I was just answering her question as to the whether or not it would be hard to clean. I have the room and all the supplies already so I will just make the bigger one then.

RodentCuddles
12-09-13, 11:18 am
I have a 3x10 split into t a 3x5 + 3x3 for my herd of 6...I would love for them to have the whole area but sadly my rescue is full (and will get more pigs in after christmas when the novelty of a guinea pig for christmas wears off...) so I've had to give up part of my guys cage.

The bigger is better, but also is the easiest. My cage is just on the floor..upper levels always annoy me so I don't do them..but that's just me. (:

CudsGwennyPash
12-09-13, 11:25 am
I have a 3x10 split into t a 3x5 + 3x3 for my herd of 6...I would love for them to have the whole area but sadly my rescue is full (and will get more pigs in after christmas when the novelty of a guinea pig for christmas wears off...) so I've had to give up part of my guys cage.

The bigger is better, but also is the easiest. My cage is just on the floor..upper levels always annoy me so I don't do them..but that's just me. (:

I have never had an upper level so I am really just trying it out. I just worry my girl will have a hard time getting up there, because I can't figure out how to make a stable ramp that has very little incline.

Traysea
12-09-13, 11:50 am
The lower the patio, or longer the ramp the smoother the incline. Mine fly up the ramp no problem. Everyone of my pigs has used the ramp within 5 minutes of me putting it in.

This is what I did for the patio support and ramp:

I started out with two bars that run across the cage to support the patio (in my case I used wonder bars from the cage store). Since your cage is 3 grids deep you will need to use either dowels, wood, or two broom handles. Something stiff that fits inside your grids or if you are handy cut to size and add hooks to the ends to hook onto the grids.


On top of the support bars I laid a grid to hold the ramp. The grid is attached only on the right side of the cage with tie wraps so it swings up. I cable tied my bent grid ramp to that grid.
58407

See how I can swing the grid up and flip the ramp out of the cage if I want:
58408

It flips all the way out so it's not in my way:
58409

My support bars are also removable and so is the kitchen underneath.

My patio is 7" from the floor. My pigs have no problem using a one grid long ramp to get up the 7" incline. If you want to make the incline even less you can cable tie two bent grids together. Your cage is so big it wouldn't be a problem to have a long ramp. I'd start with a 2 grid long ramp and see how they do.

To bend the grids: Hold your grid so that the wires are facing UP. (laying on top of the outer frame) if you do it the other way, the wires can pop off when you bend. Most people step on the grids to bend them. Bend them slowly. I just bent it with my hands and pushed against my stomach. The hardest part of bending it is just getting the outer framework bent. The inner ones bend really easily. I counted down 3 squares and started bending one side then the other.

Once both grids (or how ever long you want the ramp to be) is bent, overlap the grids by 1-2 squares and cable tie them together in several spots to secure.

OK so now you should have the support grid (or grids) attached to the side of your cage and it can swing up like in my photos. Now you can cable tie the ramp frame to the support grid.

You can do several things with the ramp.
1. Add a full coroplast frame inside your ramp to protect them from the grids (you can cut and score your coroplast to make a liner or cut 3 separate pieces and cable tie them to each side).
2. add just a coroplast floor and then cover the ramp with fleece, carpet runner, rubber carpet runner, or leave it bare and attach popcicle sticks (or other items) to the coroplast floor for traction.
3. Use towels, several layers of fleece or other fabric to line the bare grid.

CudsGwennyPash
12-09-13, 12:10 pm
The lower the patio, or longer the ramp the smoother the incline. Mine fly up the ramp no problem. Everyone of my pigs has used the ramp within 5 minutes of me putting it in.

This is what I did for the patio support and ramp:

I started out with two bars that run across the cage to support the patio (in my case I used wonder bars from the cage store). Since your cage is 3 grids deep you will need to use either dowels, wood, or two broom handles. Something stiff that fits inside your grids or if you are handy cut to size and add hooks to the ends to hook onto the grids.


On top of the support bars I laid a grid to hold the ramp. The grid is attached only on the right side of the cage with tie wraps so it swings up. I cable tied my bent grid ramp to that grid.
58407

See how I can swing the grid up and flip the ramp out of the cage if I want:
58408

It flips all the way out so it's not in my way:
58409

My support bars are also removable and so is the kitchen underneath.

My patio is 7" from the floor. My pigs have no problem using a one grid long ramp to get up the 7" incline. If you want to make the incline even less you can cable tie two bent grids together. Your cage is so big it wouldn't be a problem to have a long ramp. I'd start with a 2 grid long ramp and see how they do.

To bend the grids: Hold your grid so that the wires are facing UP. (laying on top of the outer frame) if you do it the other way, the wires can pop off when you bend. Most people step on the grids to bend them. Bend them slowly. I just bent it with my hands and pushed against my stomach. The hardest part of bending it is just getting the outer framework bent. The inner ones bend really easily. I counted down 3 squares and started bending one side then the other.

Once both grids (or how ever long you want the ramp to be) is bent, overlap the grids by 1-2 squares and cable tie them together in several spots to secure.

OK so now you should have the support grid (or grids) attached to the side of your cage and it can swing up like in my photos. Now you can cable tie the ramp frame to the support grid.

You can do several things with the ramp.
1. Add a full coroplast frame inside your ramp to protect them from the grids (you can cut and score your coroplast to make a liner or cut 3 separate pieces and cable tie them to each side).
2. add just a coroplast floor and then cover the ramp with fleece, carpet runner, rubber carpet runner, or leave it bare and attach popcicle sticks (or other items) to the coroplast floor for traction.
3. Use towels, several layers of fleece or other fabric to line the bare grid.

This helped a lot. :)

Traysea
12-09-13, 12:23 pm
Also, since your pig has a problem I would make sure that when you cut the patio door out you do it as two barn doors that swing out so they can be clipped to the ramp on the top. If you just cut out a hole then there will be a gap:

See the gap between the top of the ramp and the patio? If I cut the door as two barn doors instead of one big hole I could have scored the sides and swung the doors open and clipped them to the grid.

So pay attention to that part. OR you can extend the ramp up into the patio a few squares. I think that would affect being able to swing the ramp and supports up and out of the cage.
58410

To fix the gap I cut a strip of coroplast the height of my ramp and long enough to wrap into the patio. I velcroed that wall to the patio and clipped the rest of it to the grid:

58411

Once the walls are in place you might have to trim the top of the walls so they are the same height as the patio.
It should really be done on both sides because you can still see the gap. I'm considering replacing my patio with a 1.5 x2 patio so I will address this better in the future. With all those large binder spines you have, you could do a nicer version of these walls by using the binder spines to clip the walls to the grid frame.