C&C raised cage with just zip ties?

I don't like connectors so all I ever use is zip ties..the raised and stacked cages are all stable.
The only problem I've had is with lofts..but everything else has been stable as using just zip ties.

ok great. second question. what can i put in the bottom instead of coroplast?

You could use linoleum

oooo good idea! thank you!

This is my current cage for my texels. I store my fleece under it. It's made with zip ties.
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This one was made with zip ties, too.
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This one was made with zip ties, too, and had a ramp that could be lifted up to clean under it. The loft sat on PVC trim.
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My preference is for all zip ties.

i like using connetors on the corners for added stability, seemed to flimsy for me.

Tensonstar said:

i like using connetors on the corners for added stability, seemed to flimsy for me.

Click to expand...

We have 6 c&c cages, none have connectors and none are flimsy or feel/look weak..maybe you just didn't put enough cable ties on it too make it flimsy as we've never had that problem (apart from a loft but it's a different story) in the past 5 years of owning piggies and using c&c cages...

Tensonstar said:

i like using connetors on the corners for added stability, seemed to flimsy for me.

Click to expand...

I add grids on the bottom of any cage I make with zip ties. They're so sturdy, we can carry them by holding on to the top of the grid without supporting them on the bottom. I've flipped them on their sides and back with ease. I've made them with connectors, too. It's really just a matter of preference and I think either way is fine.

We used zip ties, but we also made a T out of wood to help support the top.

Tara1 said:

We used zip ties, but we also made a T out of wood to help support the top.

Click to expand...

Space is an issue in my dining room so I overlapped two spaces on the grids along the width to make my double decker 2x4 cage slightly narrower. It's about 25" wide this way. What I didn't expect, but ended up happening, was that the cage didn't even need a supporting I-beam. It's really solid and doesn't sag.

pinky said:

Space is an issue in my dining room so I overlapped two spaces on the grids along the width to make my double decker 2x4 cage slightly narrower. It's about 25" wide this way. What I didn't expect, but ended up happening, was that the cage didn't even need a supporting I-beam. It's really solid and doesn't sag.

Click to expand...

oh we did the T just because i was paranoid and wanted the support hehe. Cage was stable. I just wanted to to make sure it was strong for the piggies hehe.

Tara1 said:

oh we did the T just because i was paranoid and wanted the support hehe. Cage was stable. I just wanted to to make sure it was strong for the piggies hehe.

Click to expand...

I built one with a wooden I-beam that extended under the top level. That worked really well, too.

i put it all together last night with nothing but zip ties and it actually seems sturdier than ones i've made with connectors. it's nice to be able to pick it up from the top without having i fall apart. thanks all!

well i used connecters on the corners for the loft and for the other cage with is two grids higher then the other one. i bet its fine if it wernt so high up.

Okay, so I have a question about the linoleum. Can I basically follow the same instructions to make the C&C cage with the coroplast but instead use linoleum? If the instructions aren't the same...then how should I do it?

i dont see why it would be any different other than after you cut the squares out of the corners you don't have to score it to fold it. i've never used it, just a thought.