Ferrets Ferret Cage?

I'm sure if you use the same kind of idea as the C&C cage you can make a wonderfully large, multi-leveled ferret cage. I think that you may want to use zip ties to add extra security.

Any one else?

You could basically make it as if you were making a c&c cage, but instead of width, focus more on length, and use zip-ties.

Hope I helped!

(This information is from Ferrets for Dummies by Kim Schilling, Chapter 6; "Home Sweet Home: Setting Up Your Ferret's House".)

Ferrets are carnivores, so they should be housed with other ferrets or by themselves (no mixing them with other small animals). Even if they won't feel the need to hunt another animal, they could play a small animal to death.

Cage's MINIMUM size is 3 ft wide, 2ft deep by 2 ft high for 1 ferret, and more space is MUCH BETTER.

It should have good ventilation. You should avoid small openings between wires (heads can get stuck) and secure doors with snap bolts, the snaps at the end of dog leashes. The cage shouldn't be made from wood because of the impossibility of achieving proper sanitation with one [of the aforesaid wooden cage] and the possible harm to the ferret if the wood (which in addition may contain harmful chemicals) is chewed and swallowed.

Avoid using metals with lead.

The best cages [says the author] are those made of sturdy galvanized wire. If the floor is made of wire the squares should be no bigger than 1/4 inch by 1/4 inch. The wire can be sensitive on their pads.

Multilevel cages with multiple openings are best.

Ferrets should be indoors. They shouldn't be exposed to direct sunlight with no relief. This continuous sunlight exposure can cause heat strokes or heat exhaustion. If the cage is exposed to direct sunlight during part of the day, make sure the rest of the cage (more than 2/3) is free from direct exposure. You should also avoid drafts and moisture.

Cage Stress- "Cage stress is often associated with the ferret's inability to escape to a safe place. Some signs may include constant pacing back and forth and gnawing on the cage bars or scratching incessantly at a corner of the cage. It may even have sores on his head and face from trying to push its way out of its confines." Bottom line - provide hideys: fluffy bedding piles, snooze sacks or covered hammocks. You can use wooden bird nest boxes but remember that ingested wood is harmful, so at thie first sign of wear you should instantly remove them and not put it back ever again.

Remember to place the cage in an area with much human activity so the ferret won't feel left out.

Thanks... do you know how I could make doors? Also, Would my ferrets be able to squeze through openings? (They're really fat)

The door situation I have no idea about... I'm completely useless when it comes to building/doing things with my hands. You could ask someone with a bit of construction knowledge or the mods. Jdomans (I think that's how it's spelled) gave me very useful advice on how to set up the cage I plan on building, maybe you could ask her?

your doors would have to be well made and lockable, ferrets are great escape artists.

Your ferret can escape through any opening where the head can go. They have very flexable joints and skeletons. While I think making a C&C cage is a great idea for ferrets, you may need to get the mesh cubes or figure out a way to line the cage with screening to be doubley sure no one gets out. Can you imagine how hard it is to catch a stray ferret if one gets outside?!

Do you think I could use wire shelving?

I believe there are a couple of pictures in the gallery under "Cage for Other Pets" https://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/531
that list some cages for Ferrets. Hope that helps.

Speaking of jdomans, I was reading through this and immediately said, "wire shelving". Pay attention when you get to Lowe's or Home Depot as they have various brands and there is one that is very inexpensive. They come in all widths. Think this out carefully to avoid spending more money than need be and also to avoid regrets. Plan, plan, and plan some more.

You can remove the existing cage door and put it on the new cage.

Just an idea...for a door you could attach one side of a grid with zip ties (those will be the hinges) and on the other side put a latch like the ones on the ends of leashes (like what claudie said). Hope that helps.

I think you could certainly make a CC cage for a ferret. I would just make sure to ziptie it like mad to make sure they cant slip through any of the cracks, and it might be better to design it so that you use two grids in each spot so that the holes are smaller (like double layering the walls- with one layer being slightly offset from the other). I wouldnt use the mesh grids, I once used a metal cage material kinda like window screen but thicker for mine, and the rascals chewed through it. The ferrets I used to have could escape through some of the smallest places i swear, and they figured out every single cage lock I had with the exception of tiny pad locks! Make sure you get the good metal grids. I bought some on ebay that are alot flimsier than the ones at walmart and target.......they work for my gp's, because they arent concerned with getting out....but a ferret would be able to chew through it no problem.

Where can I find mesh cubes?

You can find mesh cubes at Target, but personally, I wouldnt recomend them for a ferret. My ferrets could use a combonation of scratching with their nails and chewing with their teeth, and have a hole through mesh in no time.

When I had ferrets my female could fit ALL the way through the spaces in the grids. She was not a small girl, either.

When I said mesh, I had envisioned the ones with a solid sides, not like a window screening mesh. I may be using the wrong word or have a bad memory of what they're like though. I thought they were very, very sturdy.

This is a mesh grid I got from Linens N Things, they are the orange grids. They have very tiny little holes:

Yeah, that was more what I had imagined. They're very stiff and solid right?

They are very solid, it's hard to bend them, but they do get just a little flimsy at the very center of the grid, it's weakest point. But not flimsy enough to cause a hazard in any way.