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Technical Plans/Ideas for a 2x3 Cage, Multi-Level

kimmee

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OK, so I have room for a cage that's 2x3 grid sizes on my table. I am getting a pair of most likely, older cavies. What do you think is the best set-up for the cage? It must be fully enclosed as I have a cat who is like a houdini.

I'm guessing that older cavies will probably not like going up and down ramps very much, not like younger cavies who probably wouldn't mind it. I want to have a larger cage though, so I can build upwards but not outwards.


What is the best compromise?

I'm thinking that maybe I'll have a 2x3x2 cube (2 deep, 3 wide, 2 high) with two levels... the base level would be the 2x3 bottom. The next level would be a 2x1 loft, with a straight ramp down.

Is this type of ramp adaquate? What is the optimal angle for a ramp, taking into account these will be older cavies? The angle of ramp I am describing would be somewhere around 30 - 35 degrees incline, I think. Is this too steep though?

Do you think that a "stair" is better than a ramp? If so, do you know of any good photos of a cavy staircase, that I can use to make mine? I work better when I can see a photo of what I'm trying to make, than just having someone describe it to me.


Thanks for any input on this, I appreciate it! :)
 

guineapiglvr14

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I thnk you should do a 2x3 on the main level then a 2x3 on the top level. You can use grids with zip ties to make the ramp. For older pigs I would go with ramp instead of stairs.
 

kimmee

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guineapiglvr14 said:
I thnk you should do a 2x3 on the main level then a 2x3 on the top level. You can use grids with zip ties to make the ramp. For older pigs I would go with ramp instead of stairs.


Ah, but if the upper level is over the entire cage, where does the ramp lead up to? I'm confused lol I'm just thinking... there has to be some sort of hole for the pig to actually move from level to level, right? :eek:
 

Ly&Pigs

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It's easy to cut a hole in a grid. You only need a pair of bolt cutters and a sander or some heavy duty sand paper to smooth down the edges. For an easy ramp, take two grids, bend them and zip/cable tie them together, then attach to upper level. Cover with coroplast and some material over the top and waaalaaa! Instant ramp.

Have you looked through the ramps section of the photo galleries? There are many pics of all kinds of ramps there.
 

aqh88

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*Forgets how to find the degree of incline to a ramp*

Anyway my ramp is 3' 3" long and seems perfect but it wouldn't really fit in a 2x3. It takes only mild traction for them to race up and down it and even 8yr old Mischief would go up the ramp without trouble. It's also 7" wide so even racing pigs haven't fallen off it but there are probably many people with shorter ramps and increased traction that don't have problems.
In a small cage it might be better to do a curved ramp that turns about 90degrees in the middle. The problem with putting any type of ramp in a 2x3 is that the cage is so small you need all the floor space you can get. The best ramp for such a cage would be the pvc ramp that attaches to the outside of the cage. The pigs go through a hole in the grids and coroplast at the side and into the ramp. Then out another hole at the top back into the cage. There's a pic somewhere in the galleries.
 

kimmee

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Ly&Pigs said:
Have you looked through the ramps section of the photo galleries? There are many pics of all kinds of ramps there.

I'm browsing there now... thanks!


aqh88 would that work if I got a flexible type pipe, like a corrugated pipe, and had an enclosed ramp that ran up the outside of the cage?

Ah, but what if a pig got stuck in the pipe *freaks out* that would NOT be good!

Well... I have a lot of ideas how, looking at this photo makes me think I may be able to do it on the inside of the cage, simply leaving one square out of the top level.

Hmm... must brainstorm more. Thanks everyone! ^_^
 

Pinny Gigs

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I made my cage by missing out a grid on the top floor. It is a 2x4 but could easily be addapted to a 2x3. The ramp isn't too steep either and would fit in a 2x3 because it was in my cage before the remodel!

100_0514.jpg


100_0512.jpg
 

kimmee

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Oh, awesome! Thanks for posting those photos it helps a lot!
smile.gif


I would do something similar, but the major difference for mine would be that the coroplast would be on the second level just like the first one, so that it would stick up around the edges. I'd do that to keep my room clean and to prevent unintended sky-diving off the top level into the ramp, or when the door is open, sky-diving into my room! *laughs* That would not be good! Especially with the older cavies, they might have problems seeing the edge maybe, if there wasn't a "lip" there... I worry about stuff like that, hehe.

I really really really wish that I could do a 2x4, but I just don't think it's possible... unless I had the cage going off of the table on one edge, but that really wouldn't be safe, would it? I can see in your pictures, that it kind of "peeks" off the edge, that's what I'm thinking of. Do you have any problems with that, that it might fall?

Anyway I would have to rearrange the furnature in my room, to be able to do that, but that's not a problem! So, do you have the cube grids on the bottom of the cage? I think if I did that, it would make it MUCH more sturdy. That would also make me feel a lot better about having it peek over the edge... But since many people don't do that (as I've seen in photos and descriptions) is there a reason for it? Like does it make the cage wobbly or anything? I'm trying to prevent the wobble, so making it worse would be quite counter-productive!

What if, instead of using the connectors on the bottom, I only used ties? That may make it less wobbly, since it wouldn't have connectors sticking out of the bottom, right?



Thank you again for your help, I really do appreciate it (and so will my piggies!)
smile.gif
 

Pinny Gigs

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Mine does peek off the edge a little doesn't it! I kept it stable by putting grids on the bottom too. Just at the side edges so it has a solid bottom where it hangs off and holds itself on. Without them it would be pretty unstable due to the weight. Does mean that I can't take the correx tray out so I have to climb in to clean it. The boyfriend laughs when he sees me up to my shoulders in the cage giving it a good scrub! Think this is the main reason not many people have grids on the bottom, there is no need if it is fully on a table or on the floor.

I didn't think the connectors were very stable so I used connectors all round. Don't think putting on a bottom would be very effective with connectors.

Hope this helps. Any other questions feel free to pm me or post on this thread.

Laura
 

kimmee

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I don't mind climbing in to clean it, I was planning on not moving the cage once it's set up anyway (I'm not that strong, plus, I have nowhere to put the top of the cage while I'm cleaning! hehe)

What do you recommend for me using for the bottom, I mean to connect the bottom together? I don't understand what you mean by this:

I didn't think the connectors were very stable so I used connectors all round. Don't think putting on a bottom would be very effective with connectors.

I think you may have mistyped something there, but I'm not totally sure... anyway if you could explain I'd love you for it ;)

Thank you again!
 

Pinny Gigs

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Oops! I used cable ties or zip ties whatever you call them! All the studying I've done has addled my brain. Sorry for the confusion.
 

kimmee

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Question...

How do you know for sure that your cage will be big enough when it has multiple levels? I don't know how much space to subtract from the bottom level for the ramp to go.

Arg, soooo much planning! :D
 

Kriket

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kimmee said:
Question...

How do you know for sure that your cage will be big enough when it has multiple levels? I don't know how much space to subtract from the bottom level for the ramp to go.

Arg, soooo much planning! :D

To make SURE, just make the cage bigger than the minimum recomended. That way you know, that even if the ramp is taking up usable running around room, that they have more than minimum anyway.
 

kimmee

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Okay, I think I'll just subtract the 2 spaces from the 16... meaning the one that's open in the top to give them lots of room to get up and down, and the one where the ramp comes low enough they can't fit under it... that gives me 14 square units of floor space, enough for four hammies! :D

Great, now I'm going to adopt more than two, I just know it *laughs*
 

Ly&Pigs

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How do you know for sure that your cage will be big enough when it has multiple levels?
The main level must meet or exceed the minimum recommended size for the amount of piggies. Lofts are extra space and do not count toward the overall square footage.

enough for four hammies!
Hammies?
 

Suisan

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Ly&Pigs said:

Perhaps a typo for piggies? I hope.

Or maybe she's building for some very L-A-R-G-E hamsters? :eye-poppi
 

kimmee

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LOL!

I meant cavies... my pain management medications make me really spacy and out of it right now, hehe!

And yeah I'll keep that in consideration, thanks Ly!
 
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