View Full Version : A couple of questions

11-05-05, 02:04 pm
Ok well I was thinking about closing the top of my Guinea Pig cage and getting a house rabbit but I have a few questions:
-Can you leave a rabbit out of its cage like a cat and just leave a food and water dish somewhere.

-If you can't do the first one then how big of a cage would you need

-Do they cost a lot in upkeep and cage repairs

-I heard they can smell bad at times, is that true?

-and finally are they as skiddish as Guinea Pigs (Run full speed if you so much as look at them)

Thanks to all who can answer any of these questions because I would really like to get a Rabbit or Bunny or w/e

11-05-05, 03:19 pm
A rabbit wouldn't go after your pigs, you wouldn't need a top on your cage. A rabbit can be litter trained so yes it can be left out like a cat(you can use a cat's litter box and put the hay there too.). But you would need some kind of corner or safe spot, maybe a small pen with a house including the food where the rabbit can go and feel safe.

It'll depend on the type of rabbit for cage size. Smaller breeds only need a 2x3 with daily floor time, larger breeds do better in 2x4-5's. I'm not sure about upkeep as I don't have one. If you get your rabbit already neutered/spayed there won't be a cost there but veggies need to be fed daily and rabbit pellets need to be provided. You may also need annual vet checks.

I'm sure they don't do enough damage to the cage to need repairs. If it turns out to be a chewer you can put the grids inside the coroplast. Rabbits also have a long lifespan(8-10 years) you've gotta think ahead too..unless you get an older bun.

Skittish? It depends on the rabbit. I don't know if personality changes between gender though. Some are very friendly and will come right out to get some lovin' but others will hide away but are still happy sitting on your lap they just don't like the getting there part.

11-07-05, 11:18 am
Can you leave it out? Yes, if you bunny proof well, it doesn't chew the carpet, and you're okay with it's level of destruction. Some rabbits are more destructive than others. Carpet chewing can lead to intestinal blockages, so be careful. Mine are currently caged because of agreement with my landlords when I got them, but when I get a house I will hopefully be able to turn them into full-time house rabbits.

Cage size- depends on the size of the rabbit. Bare minimum 2x3 for a small rabbit, preferably with a shelf to jump up on. My rabbits all love jumping onto their shelves. My two dwarf hotots have a 2x4 with a 1x4 shelf and it's a good size for them.

Upkeep- vet checks, pellets/hay/veggies, litter, toys. The best litter I've found (Woody Pet or similar brands) is also the cheapest.

The only smell to a rabbit is urine, if you don't clean as often as you should. Territorial poops can smell a little, especially if you have multiple rabbits engaged in a poop war. Left-over cecals (night poops) smell bad too. Good litter reduces any urine smell- again, the best I've found is wood pellets like Woody Pet.

Temperament depends on the individual. I highly recommend adopting a spayed/neutered adult from a shelter. Babies change a lot when the hit puberty. This way you'll know what they are actually like. I have one I can't touch, one that likes to be petted sometimes on her terms, and two that like to lay next to me and be petted for long periods of time.

I would recommend a top for you GP cage, especially if the sides are only one cube high. Or extend the sides up one cube. A curious rabbit can easily jump a 14 inch barrier, and could hurt a guinea pig without meaning to.

11-07-05, 01:06 pm
My rabbits litter trained themselves, so it must be fairly easy to do. I just let them run around for a few hours every night, and they spent most of the day and slept in the cage. Toys are a BIG deal to rabbits, they get rather destructive if they don't have them. They genearally like toys that roll, or that they can pick up and drop that makes a noise. They are really active in the early morning and twilight hours...if you keep the cage in your room, be prepared to get woke up at 5am by playing buns.

11-07-05, 04:14 pm
I have a friend who has 3 house rabbits. From what I have seen of them:

- House rabbits will need 'eating stations' where their fresh foods are put down and their dry food and water is always available. House rabbits are a slightly larger responsibility in a way. You really have to keep your eye out for them whatever you did, you'd have to permanently rabbit-proof the rooms they'd be free in and you'd have to warn everyone else who visited that there are always rabbits running free in the house.

- If you were to build a cage, it would need to be at least 2 levels in height so that the bunny can reach it's full height. Ideally the cage should be long enough for the bunny to hop forward once or twice without running into the other end of the cage, so a 2x4 or bigger should be sufficient.

- Rabbits are a little more expensive but only in terms of vet bills. I see little difference in feeding a rabbit to a cavy, the same with housing. The only difference I can see is in terms of the health.

- House rabbits don't necessarily smell any worse than caged rabbits. As long as you clean up after the bunny you shouldn't have any problems with smell unless he/she decides to sleep where he/she has peed. They really should be litter trained before letting them become house rabbits too.

- Most rabbits are naturally frightened, just like piggies. It takes time to get them to trust you and when they do they are so rewarding.

Again, I have to say that this is only what I know about house bunnies having spent time with them. The friend who has them, who actually runs a rabbit and piggy rescue, even knows someone with 11 house rabbits!

11-08-05, 04:08 pm
Rabbits can make excellent pets, but please do your research as they are a long term commitment and can be hard work. Here are some places to start: www.rabbit.org (http://www.rabbit.org)