Query About Using Connectors when Making a Grid Floor, and Finishing Coroplast Edges?

[karwask]

Hi All,

I'm in process of building an L-shaped enclosure that will be 2X5 plus an extra two grids for the L. I've put together the grids using the connectors and plan to also zip tie for extra security. First off, it still seems more rickity than I would like. But the problem is that I'm also building a grid floor and the connectors stick up and will make the coroplast floor uneven and, eventually, they might poke through. Does anyone have experience with this or something to help enlighten me about it? Maybe just using zip ties to put it together and skipping the connectors is a better idea? Are zip ties sufficient, when used alone, then? Can anyone speak to this?

I don't know that my current pig and two new ones to come will be coroplast eaters or not but can assume, probably, yes, to a degree. So, the idea of having unfinished, open coroplast edges of the tray in the enclosure seems like a problem to me. I plan to have my fleece liner sewn and will not come over the edges of the coroplast, will just lay in the tray as, so far, the one pig is not a burrower.

I will be using sturdy clear tape to hold together the outsides of the tray where it has been scored and was thinking of using the same tape to put over the inside "exposed" edges of the coroplast as the last thing to do. Any thoughts about this?

thanks so much,

[spy9doc]

I can speak to most of your questions.......based on my person experience and preferences

TAPE: First of all, NO tape anywhere on the cage is my motto. If you aren't going to cover the sides of the coro with fleece, then the tape looks just plain tacky. You don't want to use tape anywhere on the inside where your cavies can nibble on it. They are more likely to nibble on the tape than on the coroplast. I use a high temperature glue gun to assemble the coroplast box. It works really well, just don't use any sustained contact with the tip of the glue gun.

BINDING FOR COROPLAST: I don't find that my cavies have much interest in chewing the walls of the main level because it's just too much trouble to reach them. If you're concerned about that, make the walls about 8" high (vs. the usual 3-6") Where I might be cautious is on the edges of the ramp or the edges of the loft where they seem more tempted to stand up and peer out. The edges of the ramp and the edges of the loft are covered with a hard plastic that is used to bind reports, or as I found it......called "Poster Hangar" which comes in 24" lengths with two to a package at Michael's Crafts in the framing section.

You have to apply this binding BEFORE you assemble and glue the corners of the coro box. You have to have a free edge of the coro to get the binder started and work it toward the other side. I understand that this binder may be available online, but it it comes in one foot lengths, it's really difficult to slide that many onto the coroplast.



CONNECTORS: Absolutely use the connectors, especially if you are putting a floor on the cage.....which I recommend. You will not be happy with just using zip ties if you care about your work. I use connectors, lots of heavy-duty 6-8" zip ties, and then put a drop of hot glue into the snugged-up connectors. My cage is so sturdy that I can sit in it. Snug the grids into the connectors with channel-lock pliers, secure with zip ties, and finish with the dab of hot glue dropped into the connectors. If you don't go to the extra work, you won't be happy with the finished product.

Yes, you have to plan out the orientation of the connectors.........the ones in the center of the bottom need to have the flat side up so that the coro box is level.

GRIDS: Don't be afraid to modify the grids to suit your creativity. For instance, my grids around the loft are only six squares high with six-inch coro sides. The loft portion of my cage is in a corner where there's no temptation to climb out, nor is there anything in the loft that a cavy could stand on to attempt escape. I also created a door to the loft by cutting a hole in a grid so that I could maintain the stability of the structure. I use a pair of lightweight bolt cutters to cut the grids. Just be aware that you will have resulting sharp edges that must then be filed down with a Dremel, and I also put those edges where the grid adjoins another, not where the altered edges are exposed. Cut grids don't fit very well in the connectors, so take that into consideration with your planning.

GRID STAND: I searched high and low for a structure to put the cage on. I considered purchasing all kinds of tables, bookcases, plywood top with attached legs.......almost anything one can come up with. I eventually decided to make my own grid stand to suit the cage and the area where it would sit. Build the cage first with the bottom, then the cage stand separately, and then zip-tie them together. The cage is the perfect height and the space underneath utilized for plastic storage bins, canvas drawers from Target, etc. Should you later decide to change the configuration of the cage, then it's pretty easy to modify the grid stand as well. You won't find a table anywhere for the price of a box of grids.

I think I answered your questions? If not, feel free to ask again. You will find pics of my cage here:

http://www.guineapigcages.com/forum/...-new-cage.html

[Zuidy]

@spy9doc , if you haven't answered their questions, they are too hard to please!

[jacqueline]

i have three c& c cages: 2x3; 2x4; and 3x5. i started by using connectors by got too frustrated with how easily some of them feel off. i now use only zip ties and i love it. it looks cleaner to me and is absolutely sturdy (tho i wouldn't sit on mine). zip ties also make it easier to keep tight and there are no connector "lumps". i tend to "over" zip-tie - eventually there are zip ties on every square. good luck!

[pinky]

My cage has connectors in a few places but I have zip ties connecting all the grids and even used them to reinforce the ones that have connectors on them. I used clear plastic tape on the outside corners where my coroplast overlaps. I was very careful to cut it straight and not get any debris on it when I stuck it in place. I stuck it vertically to completely cover the overlapped edge. You don't even notice it at all and it looks neat and clean. It sits inside the grids so the tape is invisible. The one good thing about the tape is that if you ever need to take the cage apart, you can remove the tape and retape it later. I took off the tape and stored away my 2 x 5 all flattened out when I made a new 2 x 6 with new coroplast and rebuilt it about a year later to house my texels when I adopted them off Craigslist.

[spy9doc]

Pinky.......you must be uber neat with that tape! I just couldn't stand the way mine looked. I don't know what you used, but I used the wide rolls of packing tape and it reflected light at the corners. There must be some part of me that thinks someone is going to come into my home, take the cage apart, and critique every aspect of its construction.

[pinky]

Pinky.......you must be uber neat with that tape! I just couldn't stand the way mine looked. I don't know what you used, but I used the wide rolls of packing tape and it reflected light at the corners. There must be some part of me that thinks someone is going to come into my home, take the cage apart, and critique every aspect of its construction.

I used heavy duty clear package sealing tape. I found that the thinner tape was wrinkly and not really clear but the thicker tape went on smooth. I'm really picky and if I thought it looked bad, I'd have been scrambling to redo it. It might be noticeable if it wasn't inside the grids but I had to really look for it when I went over to look at it a few minutes ago. You don't even see it. I was picky about the height all the sides being the same.

[karwask]

Thanks everone for the helpful posts.

Spy9doc, You are awesome. I really like your sensibilities and I completely adore your final enclosure, it's amazing and I'm inspired. I like those plastic binder things you used for the loft. I wonder if I could use those to cover the edges of the coroplast all around the enclosure? I think your walls are the standard 6" and that's what I had in mind as well.

I didn't want to make a loft because it seems to tend to make it dark underneath and hard to clean. At the same time, I recognize how much having more stimulation is good for the pigs so thought it might be nice. I think you have struck the perfect compromise with a loft that is still pretty open but usable as demonstrated by your pig.

Pinky, yes I thought that using heavy clear packing tape would be the way to finish off the corners from outside and this is why I wondered if it would work to finish off the inside edges of the coroplast but now will not do that as per suggestions here.

[spy9doc]

I didn't want to make a loft because it seems to tend to make it dark underneath and hard to clean. At the same time, I recognize how much having more stimulation is good for the pigs so thought it might be nice. I think you have struck the perfect compromise with a loft that is still pretty open but usable as demonstrated by your pig.

No, quite the contrary.....it's not dark at all under the loft because it is a full grid above the main level. I honestly have never been able to comprehend why people discourage making a loft? My cavies get so much exercise running up and down the ramp........far more than they get doing laps around the main level.

I'm going to enlarge the cage to a 2x5 and am trying to figure out a creative way to enlarge the loft just a little. As you can see from the pic below, a 1x2 loft gets pretty crowded when both have to go to the bathroom and the same time. Usually Chester hogs the litter box and Maya ends up pooping just outside the entrance. Also, lately they both seem to want to relax in the litter box.......which means they are lying in poop despite our efforts to keep the box clean. I suspect that the litter may feel cooler than the fleece.

[karwask]

spy9doc,

Sorry, but even more questions:

So if you turn the connectors in the middle of the floor part of the enclosure grid over so the rounded part is facing up, what do you do with the connectors at the edges where the walls of the enclosure have to slot in? If some are turned up and some down, given that the connectors are not evenly divided, top and bottom, it will be lumpy? (If you understand what I'm referring to).

Also, wondering about your fleece. Is that sewn in layers and then it just fits in the floor of the coroplast tray? Can you say more about your layers if this is the case?

What did you make your ramp out of? How did you connect it? Is the loft simply supported by grids?

Can you teach a class on this? Can you make mine

thanks,

[PetsRLife23]

The ramp is from the guinea pig zone store. I have one, but black. They are amazingly sturdy. I really recommend buying one.

[CavyMama]

@spy9doc - Glue might work but in the case where you need to disassemble the cage (expanding, traveling, etc), doesn't that make it difficult to do?

[PetsRLife23]

If you use a hot glue gun it should be fine. I just learned about this and I am very excited to try it so I can make my cage sturdier.

[Xeygwyn]

Just to add - I used hot glue for the kitchen area I made my boys (out of coroplast), but did something a little different with the coroplast base.

I used two-sided Velcro (hook-and-loop fasteners) for the folded edges (i.e. hook on the fold, loops on the opposite side). The boys can't reach them, they hold like concrete, and when it's time to clean the coro (if necessary), I can pull it out, undo the velcro and get into those pesky corners! I absolutely love it.

[PetsRLife23]

Velcro is a great idea! I'll have to try that. I've been using tape, on the outter part of course so the piggies won't eat it and it looks bad . This is why I love this website!

[Xeygwyn]

Velcro is a great idea! I'll have to try that. I've been using tape, on the outter part of course so the piggies won't eat it and it looks bad . This is why I love this website!

I was so aggravated at first, because all I could find was two small pieces of Coro for my base. I taped them, and I absolutely dreaded showing any pictures of it because of how junky it looked Then I found a local shop that gave my a pretty orange 8' x 4' for $20. All I did was take the 'Tape the flaps' portion here How to Make a C&C Cage and put two strips of the two sided Velcro (one for top half, one for bottom, extra hold) along the inside of that fold (4 inches long each, so they don't stick out). It looks so pretty now, LOL!

[spy9doc]

spy9doc...... even more questions:

Sorry, I just now saw your post and the questions. I'll do my best to get to them tomorrow.

[spy9doc]

Be cautious about assembling anything that has cracks and crevices in it on the inside. My cavies seem to like to back up to the coro corners and poop there......which sometimes ends up under the fleece and directly on the coro. Even though I regularly clean the coro with a vinegar/water mix and use a toothbrush on the crevices, I'm convinced that I just don't get them clean. And, this is with adding hot glue to seal the crevices.

This weekend, I will take the coro "boxes" out of the cage, out to the yard, and clean them with a weak bleach solution, rinse well, and perhaps let the sun sanitize them as well.

[karwask]

Xeygwyn,

Sorry if I'm not completely understanding about the velcro. You are saying you are using this to secure the outside of the coroplast tray where the tabs come together and are usually taped over? When you say "hooks and loops" is this referring to the two opposite pieces of velcro that then come together when engaged and you can pull apart to clean? If so, wow, that's genius with amazing implications if one was traveling and wanted to fold up the enclosure to take it on the road. Any/all claficiation is most appreciated.

thanks,

[spy9doc]

@spy9doc - Glue might work but in the case where you need to disassemble the cage (expanding, traveling, etc), doesn't that make it difficult to do?

No, I don't find it difficult to disassemble. I actually went out this afternoon and clipped the zip-ties on my "run" and was able to just pull the grids out of the connectors without using anything to pry them out. I had an ice pick and flat blade screwdriver with me just in case, but didn't need them.