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#1
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
I got my rabbit a friend, and when the new grids come in, I will be building them a new cage. I was planning on building a cage like this: Back to a two - floor home - Guinea Pig Cage Photos But with a third level, that is just like the second. ANY suggestions are GREATLY appreciated! I also have a question. Is the bigger the cage, the less a chance of fighting? I have two male rabbits, and, with all male rabbit pairs, they have a chance of randomly getting in little arguments at any time. Thanks |
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#2
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Hmm... well, I looked at another post you made, so I'll try to help you with the info you've posted so far. First, you said that the 2nd bunny isn't getting neutered until Thursday. Because of that, I wouldn't even bother with bonding just yet. After bunny #2 gets his surgery, ideally you should limit his level of activity (including bonding, which comes with its occasional spats) and restrict him to a single-level cage for the first few days, so he gets a chance to heal. I would even give him at least a week of "rest," so most of the hormones have a chance to leave his body. Second, a normal part of bonding rabbits IS mounting, even in fixed rabbits. It's how they show/establish their dominance. It's about power, not mating. Third, you said your bunny (at least one of them) is "tiny." I don't know if it's because the bunny is young or if it will always be that tiny, but I would caution you to put a third level in their cage. Bunnies have extremely fragile frames and I would hate it if one of the bunnies were to fall and break his back. I would stick with only 2 levels. I personally don't have a bonded pair of rabbits, so I don't know if a bigger cage lessens the chance of fighting, but like I said, I don't think your bunnies are ready to be properly bonded just yet. I would wait. Good luck with the surgery! You're doing a wonderful thing for him! |
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#3
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
I just checked another thread you started: Whoa, the 1st bunny is blind?? I would definitely not have a third level! I would even question having a second level. Be very careful about the construction of your set-up. Good luck. |
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#4
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Okay, thanks, you've been a big help with everything! I will wait until next Thursday (the week after he gets neutered) to bond. I know that part of mounting is establishing hierarchy. But, the lady at the rescue lifted him and looked at his 'parts' and said he was trying to mate. I don't really want to know what she saw, haha. I think now the mounting is dominance and stuff. Both bunnies are tiny and full grown, so I will keep it to two levels. One of my buns (the new one) likes going to high spots, but do you still think I should keep it to two levels? I will do what is in the best interest of their health, though! Again, thanks for your help! |
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#5
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Oh, and I think that he actually isn't blind. He does have a cloudy spot in one of his pupils, but I think he was just acting funny because he was nervous at first. He has a second level now and loves it, so I think I still want a second level. |
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#6
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Please excuse me for posting 3 separate times; I'll try to be more thorough next time! Anyway, I was reminded of this fabulous website by the San Diego chapter of HRS and thought I should include these very helpful links about bonding for you to check out: 1) Bonding: What to Expect, What to Do 2) Bonding Tips and Tricks In fact, the second link recommends that you should "wait at least two weeks (a month is better)" after the surgery. Bonding isn't easy, but hopefully it works out! |
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#7
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Thanks.... again! : : |
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