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#1
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0 I recently purchased a baby guinea pig for a family pet. We have named her Piper. We're not sure her age...we were told 2 months and 4 months. So, she is still pretty small and young. I built a c & c cage, thanks to this great website. It was so easy and I love it. I used your measurements...with a 6 inch height, just like suggested. Today is Piper's 2nd full day with us. She is becoming more active...and feisty! I came running to my kids screams that she actually got out!! They told me that she went through the little square on the grid. I didn't believe them until I saw it with my own eyes! After putting her back into her cage, she did it again!! A third time, she went to the exact same spot she escaped from the first time!! She is smart!! Luckily, I had saved the leftover coroplast and I cut and attacted an additional 5 or so inches...so, now her wall is nice and high. I bought the grids at Bed, Bath, and Beyond. There are 9 squares in the grid...just as recommended. I am concerned...not that she'll get out again, because I know as she grows, she won't fit through anymore. However, I'm worried that she'll get her head stuck! Has this happened to anyone else?? Everyone, be careful...the babies can escape through 1 1/2 inch grid squares. |
| "Thank you, tmakar, for this useful post," says: | ||
barbanderson (09-10-09) | ||
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#2
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
The reason that she got out is because you didn't baby proof the cage. Young cavy's need the grids to be doubled up so that the holes are smaller and they can't get out. Look at the photo gallery dedicated to baby proofing so you can fix her cage and avoid any more escapes. http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos/showgallery.php/cat/532 |
| "Thank you, starshine123102, for this useful post," says: | ||
barbanderson (09-10-09) | ||
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#3
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Thank you so much. I am new to this! I am just glad we were here when she got out. I added more coroplast...now the walls are 10 inches high. Is this sufficient, or, do I still need to double the grids? |
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#4
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
10 inches is how high I made the sides of our cage with our babies, and they did just fine. Congrats on your baby! Are you going to adopt her a friend? |
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#5
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Yes, we plan to get Piper a friend. As soon as we find another baby, we'll get her...which brings me to another question(s). 1. Should I do anything special to introduce them? 2.Do they need to be kept separate for a bit? If we wait a month or two to adjust (ourselves) to having a pet, will this make it harder for Piper to adjust to sharing her space again? Thanks for your help! |
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#6
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
http://www.cavyspirit.com/sociallife.htm Read that whole page, it has everything you need to know about adding a second pig. |
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#7
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0 Thank you. That website has a lot of great information. We are first time guinea pig owners. We bought our baby cavy from a pet store. We would prefer to get used to having a pet before introducing another new one. If we wait a few months, does that increase the chance that she'll have a hard time accepting a new friend? |
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#8
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
No, normally they'll accept them with no real problems. Especially if they're female, they're more accepting from what I've heard. You shouldn't have a problem. Just make sure you're on neutral ground, dont just put the new on in the existing ones cage, and make sure to have a towl to seperate them with INCASE they fight, which is only bighting a lot, bleeding, things like that. They might sound or seem like they are about to fight, but dont seperate them or anything untill they actually do. But chances are they wont. |
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#9
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Thank you, again. You have been so helpful. One more question....after we introduce them,how long should we keep them separate?...The website you gave me said a few weeks...that seems long... |
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#10
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
When you first get the second one you need quarantine time for 3 weeks, that means 2 different cages, in 2 different rooms, and try to keep your hands and clothes clean between handling both so bacteria isn't transmitted. Handle the new pig last. After quarantine is up, and they both seem healthy, you can introduce them. Sit down with them in a large fenced in area and let them find eachother. Watch them for about an hour or so, depending on how they're doing. At first you might think they dont care the other one is there, but that is because they are exploring being in a new area. Once they discover eachother the fun begins. They'll mount eachother, they'll rumblestrutt (which sounds like a purr a little) and their fur on the back of their neck will stand up. They'll sniff eachothers butt, they'll chase eachother, one may seem like it's bullying the other, but it's all normal. One is proving dominance. After an hour or so, and there is no blood or fur flying, keep them together. They should be fine. They may still rumblestruff and everything at eachother, but as long as one is subsiding, it's just fine. |
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#11
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
And the reason for the 3 week quarantine is because it can take that long for an illness to show up in a guinea pig. |
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#12
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0 Thank you both for the advice. We appreciate it. Piper has been with us for almost 3 weeks! We all adore her...I am so surprised at how comfortable she is with all of us, even the kids. The kids are especially enjoying floor time...we open up and spread out a large sleeping bag and let Piper go. She is very entertaining to watch. I am surprised at how she likes the borders of the bag and usually won't go off...much easier to watch than a hamster. We are still looking for a friend for her....but, in the meantime...she seems content. Thanks, again! Oh, and...she is potty training...who knew...we tried the little litter thing in the corner, which she hated...so, before I gave up, I tried just putting the litter itself in the corner. I just moved her there when she seemed about to go...at first it didn't seem like it was working...then, we started putting her there right after floor time...she always goes then...now, she uses the corner most of the time. |
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#13
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
I have no idea how to thank a member for a post but, I would like to thank you Tmakar for this thread. I am supposed to be getting a baby and had planned on building a C&C cage but had no idea they were a danger to young piggies. I was in BB&B yesterday looking at cubes and the idea that they were too big never crossed my mind. And, I've had babies before so I know how small they can be. |
| "Thank you, Caviekisses, for this useful post," say these 4,294,967,295 members: | ||
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#14
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Newbies do not have the "thank you" ability yet. Once you become a cavy slave you can start thanking people. |
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#15
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
CavieKisses, You are welcome...you can still use a C&C cage...just make the sides higher. That's what I did. I love the C&C cages...you can make it however you like. I also like the open top b/c we can all enjoy Piper more...it is much easier to reach in and pet when there is no top. I make the sides 10 inches high instead of six. Now, she is big enough that she can't fit through the holes...but, we were all amazed when she did!! Even though she is bigger now, I left the sides higher...I don't want to risk her head getting stuck! This is a great website...I have gotten lots of good advice and direction. |
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#16
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
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