Dog Safe Cage? Any Ideas?

**athread678** · #1 09-20-07, 05:41 pm

I've got a dog that has pointer in her, but when she was a pup, she showed no aggression twords the pigs. However, now that she's a bit older, her "hunter" instincts are coming out and she has started show lots of aggression and barking a the pigs.

I've since separated them, but I can't show both of them attention, since I'm trying to keep them apart. I'm so frustrated because the pigs are really getting the short end of my time

.

What can I do the my cage to help "dog-proof" it. My dog weighs about 45lbs. I've got a lid for it, but I'm not sure of the best way to secure it. Plus, i don't think the cage could stand up to her if my dog attacked

.

Any suggestions would be great. I've got 3 piggies and don't want to give them away, just make sure they're safe. Thanks!

**Jenni_Feathers** · #2 09-20-07, 06:07 pm

hmm.. tricky, I havent had much experience dog proofing but I do have a few ideas.
1. cable tie all the grids like this: http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos...to/181/cat/527
to make them stay together better, incase the dog attacked the cage the grids wouldnt come apart.
2. make sturdy lid similar to this one if you havent already and cable tie the back side and latch the front where it opens with a clip like the ones where you cilp a dog leash to a collar, I cant think of what there called but lock it with one of those. http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos...to/690/cat/533
3. put cage on table- put the cage on a table or on a grid stand but, a table would problemly be sturdier.
4. where is the cage, is it in a room where you can put up a gate to keep the dog out?

**naturegal592** · #3 09-21-07, 07:50 am

My dog is much smaller than yours (12lbs) but I did everything Jenni_feathers described and it works great for us. Sophie can even stand on top of the cage and it is fine. I have a loft on my cage so I have wire shelving on the open side and the top of the lower cage. They are joined together with cable ties and I fold one over the other on top of the cage for cleaning. I don't know if that makes any sense but I can email you pics if you like.

**athread678** · #4 09-21-07, 09:57 am

Thanks so much for the great ideas. I'm currently using the connectors, not cable ties, so I'll have to change that around. I just want them to all be safe and coexist. Thanks again!

**athread678** · #5 09-27-07, 02:13 pm

Hey... I know that rabbit cages are not good because of size and most are outdoor, but would a wooden cage (similar to size & height of C&C cage) be any safer for my pigs? It would of course be kept indoors, but I assume it would be sturdier. Any thoughts on that?

**kathrynj** · #6 09-28-07, 06:27 am

If a dog wants to get into a piggie cage, he will, no matter what.

**naturegal592** · #7 09-28-07, 08:33 am

I don't agree with that at all. My grids are all cable tied and my coroplast is cable tied to the grids. My lid is also cable tied and secured with a clamp on the side that opens. A dog is not getting in unless he can use scissors. Even if a dog bumped it off of the table it is not coming apart.

**kathrynj** · #8 09-28-07, 04:19 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by naturegal592

I don't agree with that at all. My grids are all cable tied and my coroplast is cable tied to the grids. My lid is also cable tied and secured with a clamp on the side that opens. A dog is not getting in unless he can use scissors. Even if a dog bumped it off of the table it is not coming apart.

If your dog bumped it off the table, your pigs could die of fright, and have many injuries.

I might take a picture for you of the welded metal posts and chain grid wire run that two little dogs tried to pull my deaf piggie through? She is now dead.

I have heard of dogs that totally ripped the wooden style grass hutches to peices!

Don't underestimate the strength of a dog who wants what he sees. If the dog is interested in the piggies, or gets excited around them, ensure they are NEVER together.

Far better to be safe than sorry.

**athread678** · #9 09-29-07, 12:19 am

Well, separation is out of the question. The pigs are housed in my bedroom and the dog is always with me. She's just gradually began showing them more attention. Now she's barking and sniffing, qute excited and she is very strong...

I guess then I only have one option. I tried to clean their cage tonight and it was virtually impossible with the dog wanting to get the pigs if they were out of their cage... poor little guys haven't had floor time in a few weeks now

. I feel like a horrible owner, but I just want to do what is best for them.

**pigsforlife** · #10 09-29-07, 12:30 am

Katt's story is awful and living proof that it is better to be safe than sorry. I am confused as to why separation is out of the question.

My dogs "room" is in the laundry, this is where they eat, drink and sleep. Now, I have a choice of closing the wooden door or putting up a baby gate that goes across the door. I chose the baby gate, this way they were not able to get out of the laundry if I did not want them too, they get adequate airflow, am able to listen to us talking etc, which they would not get if I closed the door.

In your case, I would recommend investing in a baby gate. They come in different heights and lengths and can be found at hardware stores like Bunnings and Baby Stores. This can go across your bedroom door and will mean that your dog will not be able to go into your room unless you enable him too yet will still be able to hear and see you. Just a suggestion.

**i-love-nev** · #11 10-17-07, 09:38 am

If I'm not mistaken, pointers (when used for what they were bred for) don't/SHOULDN'T attack, the pointer in the hunting group is used to 'point' at things such as pheasant, rabbit/hare warrens whilst out so then the human can kill this prey (shooting phesant, bolting rabbits, etc) so really this dog is using its instincts when 'pointing' its nose at the piggies, but should be taught no barking, chewing the cage etc because when pointing at prey, they have to be silent so the pheasant etc dont fly off so its possible for this dog to only 'point' at the pigs but hould bark etc.

So this dog is NOT using instincts, IF seperation is out the question then why don't you get a dog crate and put him in that whilst your pigs have playtime , floor time, lap time and whilst your cleaning them out? simple! you could make a dog crate from cubes, just (as its a pointer) use connectors AND cable ties hope you get it sorted soon!

**dalilahsmom** · #12 10-17-07, 10:51 am

Hi there,
my dog, (15lb shih tzu) is obsessed with Dalilah, but not in an agressive way. She loves her and sits by the cage wacthing the piggy! The piggy is not scared and they meet at the grids and look at each other.
I would suggest trying to train your dog to like the pigs. I would start with the following;
Have your dog sit/stay beside the cage and reward when he does so in a calm submissive way.

If you do this consistantly, the dog may learn to be around the pig cage in an appropriate manner.
Of course I am not suggesting that you should ever trust your dog alone by the pigs cage. But it may allow for the dog to be in the same room when you are there, and he may not stress the pigs or himself.

**i-love-nev** · #13 10-17-07, 03:32 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by dalilahsmom

Hi there,
my dog, (15lb shih tzu) is obsessed with Dalilah, but not in an agressive way. She loves her and sits by the cage wacthing the piggy! The piggy is not scared and they meet at the grids and look at each other.
I would suggest trying to train your dog to like the pigs. I would start with the following;
Have your dog sit/stay beside the cage and reward when he does so in a calm submissive way.

If you do this consistantly, the dog may learn to be around the pig cage in an appropriate manner.
Of course I am not suggesting that you should ever trust your dog alone by the pigs cage. But it may allow for the dog to be in the same room when you are there, and he may not stress the pigs or himself.

Sensible post

added a thanks to it.

**athread678** · #14 10-17-07, 10:46 pm

Thanks for all the great advice. As far as her simply pointing, we're working on that. She's doing much better about barking. She's learning that they are not live treats I'm hiding in my bedroom and that the piggies cage is off limits, no jumping, barking or anything. Hopefully with a little more practice and persistance there won't be a problem at all. Of course, I'll never feel safe leaving her unattended and wouldn't ever do so. Thanks again for all the help.

**cobalt** · #15 10-18-07, 03:04 pm

I have to agree with delilahsmom. Training your dog is ultimately the most sensible thing that you can do. You will see benefits for you, your dog, and your guinea pig with proper and adequate training. Plus, it should help with some of the boredom that dogs may experience that would cause them to look at your guinea pig like a play toy.

Good luck.

BTW, I have two dogs and a cat as well as my guinea pig. They all share the same living space, except for our guinea pig whose cage is on a custom built table that rests on the two dogs crates.

**hayley411** · #16 10-18-07, 03:40 pm

i have four rabbits and three labs two of them love the rabbits but one was very aggresive towards them. i got one of those hunting dog shock collars and every time he would start to fixate on the rabbits i would give him a little warning shock and he would snap right out of it. so if traditional training doesnt work for you i would recomend getting a shock collar. hope this helps.good luck.

Thank you pigsforlife for this useful post, says:
i-love-nev (10-17-07)

Thank you dalilahsmom, for this useful post, say these 2 members:
Char-x (12-28-07), i-love-nev (10-17-07)

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