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#1
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Sorry but this is going to be a little long to describe my issue and my vision. There are so many creative people here who may have the perfect solution. Our house has room shape issues. We have plenty of space but we have bay (?) windows, no long walls, and lots of windows with drafts. So the best option is for our pigs to be in the office where we spend a lot of time anyway. (We cover the windows in plastic and those ugly shades are thick fabric for keeping out drafts) Here is a picture of one incarnation of our cage so you can see the shape of the wall the cage is on with the bay windows. We removed the pet store cage which proved to be a problem area and built Doc's 2x3 again and put them back together. It's semi L shaped now. Like this but with the dividing ½ wall down: Anyway, we have the problem of "his cage" and "their cage" and when the pigs go into the "other" side it's almost like an intrusion. So I'm going to turn it into one big, fluid cage. I'm looking to build it to the shape of the window. Can you think of anything that I can use (besides wood) to use as a base that could easily be cut or fabricated to fit into the shape of the wall? We've thought of cutting grids on a diagonal (still wondering how to measure though) but I wonder if there's an easier way... |
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#2
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Coroplast! Seriously, think of it like when people use the grids for a playpen - the grid design doesn't dictate that the cage has to be a square or a rectangle, it's just easier that way to get the coroplast cut right. If you're using zip ties rather than connectors the grids can go in any shape/angle you want, and the coroplast "box" will what will dictate the shape. Am I making sense? |
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#3
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
As in, you can make a circular pen with zip ties and cubes, but not with connectors and cubes. And coroplast is pretty "shapeable" as well. |
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#4
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
You certainly don't have to cut the grids. Just zip tie them together at the top and bottom (no connectors), and fold them out however they best fit. Coroplast will still work just fine for the base--you just have to put a little more planning into it. Here's what I would do: Draw out how many grids you want and where you want them. Zip tie all those grids together and place them as you want them. Measure the length of each side (inside the grids) and each angle and draw a diagram showing this (inside perimeter). Draw another shape around the first one that adds 6" (or your side height) all around (outside perimeter). Cut this shape out (to scale) of coroplast. You might need to tape two sheets together. Cut lines perpendicular to the outside perimeter in 6" to the inside perimeter where the corners will be. Score the inside perimeter (what you drew first) and fold up the sides. Tape the corners together. They will not be right angles. Measure carefully, and this will work just fine. |
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#5
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Okay, this is a diagram that I thought of and you can use grids for a stand and base along with the coroplast, but you will have to use the zip ties and no connecters unfortunately, but if done correctly it will still be very sturdy. Basically the middle section of the cage would be a 3x3 grid while the other two sides would be more of ocward triangle of 1x2x3 attached to the 3x3 on each side. If the cage was on the floor it would take 18 grids and if raised 1 grid high it should take 42-44 grids maybe more depending on how you make your stand. I hope you can make out my diagram/drawing. |
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#6
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Not Ranked. Helpful AND tactful post? : 0
Rnd210, it might be possible to leave that area empty instead of cutting a grid, but there would end up being more empty space than in your diagram given the shape of that wall/window. We were looking at it more last night and I wondered if we could possibly leave it empty and use thick dowels for some extra support. Coroplast is sturdy but I wonder if it's sturdy enough to not have any support under it at all. We don't want to put the cage on the floor since our house can be quite drafty in the winter. Still thinking and open to suggestions |