Upper Levels Two layer cages. What do people use to support the floor on the second story? - Guinea Pig Cages, Care, Store, Photos of Guinea Pigs and More Forum!

**rogersmithiii** · #1 10-04-09, 05:16 pm

I read in this web site that it's important to give GPs open areas to run. This means not compartmentalizing the living space.

Even so, I have to put something in to support the floor on the second story.

If I screw in some 1 inch dowels as support, will these columns cause disruption to the GP's first story area?

I have to insure that the cage can support three nosy cats.

Thanks
Rog

**ferndalezoo** · #2 10-05-09, 08:32 pm

My cage is a 3x5, with an upper deck. The upper deck is suported with two grids, at right angles to each other. It makes for a "tunnel" under the loft, but takes up remarkably little space.

**blackarrow** · #3 10-05-09, 08:58 pm

I have an L shaped upper level which I had to make dogproof. I managed not to use supports by making sure my cage was braced "up" to its own top. I used both the connectors, snapped in tightly, and a LOT of zip ties. It came out stable enough for a 50 lb. dog to be able to stand on the lid without it so much as bending. I do not think a dowel or two would be a problem if you were to go with that either.

**Onetwo** · #4 10-05-09, 09:35 pm

I took two "furring" strips (cheap 1 bys at the hardware store) and stuck them through the front wall grid at the very top ran it along the 2nd (and 3rd) levels and stuck it through the back wall grid. Worked great held everything up like a beam in a house. But I hate multiple levels now...Its too much work to clean and get the piggies out. I am glad to have my easy to clean 2x12 cage! Good luck to you!

**Seonta** · #5 10-05-09, 09:44 pm

I have my first level and then one grid space between the top of the first level's wall and the floor of the second level, in that space every couple places is a set of grids that runs across as rafters. edit: The rafters do not meet the floor and thus wouldn't get in the pig's way.
Example: http://www.guineapigcages.com/photos...6/100_1661.JPG

the open sections above the bottom floor allow me to reach in for when I need to clean. I'll add some swinging grids to the open sections to close it off once I actually have guinea pigs. Something will also be put on the top of the cage. to make it safe.

**lissie** · #6 10-05-09, 10:07 pm

This is my favorite picture of cage support.
Lighting and reinforcement - Guinea Pig Cage Photos

**Ash-Ro060708** · #7 10-05-09, 10:53 pm

I have a dowel running across the top of the lower level holding the floor of the upper level up(same as the link above). Before I had a thick cardboard tube(from wrapping paper) standing in the middle of the cage, holding the floor up, but my guinea pigs would always chew on it, or pee near it and it would get wet. It is much easier with the dowel and I don't have to worry about it falling down when the boys get runnin around!

Tdchewy · #8 10-06-09, 09:46 am

I use grid sections ziptied together as the floor and ziptie a strip of wood across the front edge of the grid sections for added strength and stability. Works perfectly and doesn't take up any floor space at all.

**PixiePrut** · #9 10-08-09, 12:47 am

Hello,
I'm quite new to all of this, and so I just realised that I am writing in an already made forum. Sorry... I have no idea how to do it

Anyway, I'm currently building a two level guinea pig cage, and I was just wondering a few things:

1. For my ramp, I read somewhere that the guinea pigs should have something to be able to grip to - is this necssary? I was going to simply use a piece of wood, but then I heard that you can staple a piece of felt to it, to add grip. Won't they make this dirty? If so, is there another option?

2. What are these C&C things everyone is 'talking' about? I live In Australia, and I don't think they are out here... Does anyone know about an alternative to these that can be found here?

Once again, sorry about writing about a completely different subject on this; just new to it, but I'm learning.

Thanks.

**lissie** · #10 10-11-09, 02:38 am

Quote:

Originally Posted by PixiePrut

1. For my ramp, I read somewhere that the guinea pigs should have something to be able to grip to - is this necssary? I was going to simply use a piece of wood, but then I heard that you can staple a piece of felt to it, to add grip. Won't they make this dirty? If so, is there another option?

You can build a ramp from a piece of wood. Make sure the wood is not toxic to them. There are some types of wood that are toxic.
See photo galleries for more ramp ideas.
Ramps and Steps - Guinea Pig Cage Photos

Quote:

Originally Posted by PixiePrut

2. What are these C&C things everyone is 'talking' about? I live In Australia, and I don't think they are out here... Does anyone know about an alternative to these that can be found here?

C&C cage is made from cube & coroplast. See homepage of this site. Guinea Pig Cages, Your Cavy At Home

The basic idea for this type of cage is that it's easy to build and give piggies adequate space they need. You can build from other materials if you cannot find C&C materials in your area. See galleries for alternative cages.
Alternative Cages - Guinea Pig Cage Photos

**IluvePiggies** · #11 10-11-09, 02:13 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by rogersmithiii

I read in this web site that it's important to give GPs open areas to run. This means not compartmentalizing the living space.

Even so, I have to put something in to support the floor on the second story.

If I screw in some 1 inch dowels as support, will these columns cause disruption to the GP's first story area?

I have to insure that the cage can support three nosy cats.

Thanks
Rog

How I hold up my second level(its just for eating) is that my Dad sawed some of the grids in half and that supports it since Guinea Pigs aren't usually heavy.

**Toadies** · #12 10-11-09, 04:15 pm

I have toyed with the idea of using electrical conduit for various types of supports. As it is metal, the piggs won't chew it, it won't absorb pee and such, can be washed if needed and it is smaller in diameter than wood braces of the same strength. It is also inexpensive and you only need a hack saw to cut it. It can be zip tied to the inside corners, strung through the grid openings or laid along the top of the grids. It can also, with the proper tools, be bent at angles.

BellaBabyPuff · #13 11-03-09, 10:45 am

To support my second story I used an inexpensive metal curtain rod under the second level and zip tied it like crazy, and so far it's worked great. I'm not sure if you can tell by the photo in my gallery. This is similar to the kind I used just to give you an idea 27 - 48 In. Heavy Duty Single Curtain Rod with 2 In. Projection - A7004214318 at The Home Depot

**tree_hugger** · #14 11-07-09, 09:34 pm

Quote:

Originally Posted by PixiePrut

Hello,

2. What are these C&C things everyone is 'talking' about? I live In Australia, and I don't think they are out here... Does anyone know about an alternative to these that can be found here?

Once again, sorry about writing about a completely different subject on this; just new to it, but I'm learning.

Thanks.

Pixie, Coroplast is called "coreflute" here and you can buy it from signwriters. They might even give it to you if they have off-cuts.

There are several places here in Australia you can buy the cubes - have a look at my thread in the "Australia" section of the forum.

"Thank you, blackarrow, for this useful post," says:
Heady (11-03-09)